Monday 24 July 2017

Champion of Slaanesh

I converted this miniatures a couple of years ago and I finally got around to paint it. I painted this one for the painting competition the fang. It was painted in one evening. I did the pink with very quick wet blending and glazes. 

The model was converted using FW Fulgrims legs, FW Noice Marine head and weapon, Dark Eldar wings, Genestealer ribcage and Bloodreaver abs. 







My favourite part of the miniature is the exposed abs. I think it gives him a very Slaaneshi feel. 


Here he is beside the Daemon Fulgrim I made a few years ago. It's one of my favourite miniatures. 



Friday 21 July 2017

Dark Imperium: Poxwalkers

I've finally photographed my horde of Poxwalkers. You can find the painting tutorial for these guys HERE






The Poxwalkers are painted in a very similar way as the Pestigors I made earlier this year. I think I'll use my Black Pox warband together with the new Death Guard miniatures from Dark Imperium on this years Armies on Parade.

Saturday 15 July 2017

Blanchitsu!!



My genestealer cult is featured in this months White Dwarf. The pictures are great!

Tuesday 11 July 2017

Tutorial: Poxwalkers Batch Painting, part III

Hi! I've been a bit busy lately, and haven't had the time to write this final part of my Poxwalkers tutorial before now. But the waiting is over, and you can finally read part three of the tutorial:


Links to part one and two:




Part one and two covers all the basic parts of the poxwalkers, like flesh, clothing and metal. This third, and last part, will show how I did the Individual details on the Poxwalkers.


XXVII. When I was finished with the flesh, clothing and metal on the miniatures, I felt like I needed some more colour variation. These guys are zombies after all, and are supposed to be all different kinds of people. The first colour I chose to paint was red. I used red on some of the painted metal areas, like the wrench and shoulder pads. 

The red parts were basecoated with Dryad Bark. Then I stippled Word Bearers red from FW over the brown (Khorne Red from GW is basically the same colour). Its important that you still see some of the brown showing through. The red was then lightly stippled and highlighted with Evil Sunz Scarlet. I washed the red with camo green and sepia shades.


XXVIII. The blue was done in exactly the same way as the red. A Dryad Bark base followed by stippling and highlighting with Stegadon Scale Green and a lighter turquoise colour (I think it was Sotek Green). The markings were done by carefully stippling Word Bearer red in lines, followed by a highlight of Evil Sunz Scarlet. I finished these areas with a wash of sepia and camo green shades.


XXIX. Two of the Poxwalkers have gas tanks. I was a bit lazy at this point and only did one layer of colour over a brown undercoat. The method shown in the two previous steps can be used for any colour on rusty old plates.


XXX. I used rust to tie everything together. It was used on the bare metal and on the painted metal parts. I used Fugean Orange and Yriel Yellow to get this effect. First I applied blobs of orange shade to mark where I wanted the rust. While the shade was still wet, I applied watered down yellow where I wanted the rust to be more intense.


XXXI. The last step I did was painting the eyes and teeth. All the eyes were painted with Pallid Wych Flesh. Some got black pupils or a red glaze to make them look more zombie like. 
I used the same colour on the teeth. This was Followed by a wash of watered down black.
I used a mix of sepia shade and black paint to make the wet streaks running from their mouths. Yellow paint was added to the mix and added to the ones with the most slime. 



I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! I'll post pictures of the finished Poxwalkers later this week.


Sunday 2 July 2017

Tutorial: Poxwalkers Batch Painting, part II

Welcome to the second part of my tutorial on batch painting Poxwalkers. Read the first part HERE.



VIII. At this point I didn't think the Poxwalkers' flesh looked bruised enough, so I gave some areas a glaze of Gulliman Blue. 


IX. Now I went back to the metal parts. Some parts were already painted brown when I did the bases, but now I did the rest with a smaller brush.




X. The boots and belts were painted black. This was the most time consuming step. Some of the miniatures have a stupid amount of belts and pouches. The trench-coats were also painted in this step. 


XI. Dark Reaper was stippled over the black as a highlight. 


XII. To make the coats more worn and dirty (this is Nurgle after all), Tallarn Sand was randomly stippled over them.


XIII. Bronze was roughly painted on the metal areas still showing some of the brown in the recesses.


XIX. The previous step was repeated with Ledbelcher, still showing some of the other layers.  


XX. The metals were highlighted with Runefang Steel. 



XXI. The bases looked a bit flat, so I stippled them lightly with Elysian Green. (I'll get back to the blue shoulder pad in part three where I show how I painted the individual details.)



XXII. The bases were washed with sepia.



XXIII. Green and Sepia washed were used on metal and clothing. I like a bit of variation on the metal parts, so I used both washes at the same time, letting them blend naturally. 



XXIV. The models needed some brighter colours. I decided to make the bases more interesting by adding some rusty liquid. I archived this effect by painting a pool of Fuegan Orange on the base. Watered down Yriel Yellow was added to the orange while it was still wet. 



XXV. All the orange clothing were highlighted with Yriel Yellow. 


XXVI. Pallid Wych Flesh was used to highlight the skin, and paint the eyes and teeth. 


In these two parts I've finished the common parts on the models, like skin, metal and clothing. In the next and final part I'll show how to paint the individual details, like shoulder pads, special weapons and googles. 

This tutorial got a lot longer than I anticipated, and a bit messy. But I guess that's what happens when painting 20 models in one batch. Next time I'll make a tutorial for one model at the time. 

The next part of the tutorial will be finished sometime next week. 






EDIT: I'm finished with all three parts! Part I, Part III